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La Belle France - 14 Day Extended Tour - (Tour No. FRA) |
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DAY ONE - SUNDAY A short distance away is Richard IIIs dramatic Chateau Gaillard (built in 1196!), perched high above Les Andleys. From here we meander to the city of Rouen, a city that spends more on monuments than any other in France! Alas, while there will not be time to see every single one well make sure we see the place du Vieux-Marche, and the site where Joan dArc was burned to death in 1431. And therell be time to explore other aspects of this city of Flaubert, such as one of the many museums, or the antique shops along the rue Eau-de-Robec. Literary fans (and those with a medical interest) may enjoy visiting the Musee Flaubert & de lHistoire de la Medicine. Tonight, we stay in the picturesque harbour of Honfleur, one of the
best preserved old ports of Normandy. This romantic town has attracted
so many of Frances artistic community over the years, not only
painters but also musicians such as Eric Satie. Youll understand
the attraction when taking an after-dinner stroll around the old centre.
We begin the day with a splendid scenic drive along the Normandy Corniche where there are views over the typical Normandy countryside and Seine Estuary. This area of the northern France coastline is famed for its luxury resorts, especially Deauville and its sister, Trouville. It is here that the French social scene has been played out since their development from the early 19th century. Well take a stoll along the elegant and famed boardwalk as well as viewing the yachting harbour and casino. This afternoon well return to our pretty impressionists harbour of Honfleur for an afternoon of organised independence. DAY FOUR - WEDESDAY Lest we forget. Today we concentrate on one of the greatest achievements of modern times the liberation of France following the Normandy beach landings on D-Day. The names are familiar; Utah, Omaha, Sword, Juno and Gold. Arromanches, Pegasus Bridge and Caen. Almost every town has its war museum. And there are the sombre reminders of those who didnt make it home. This is a day of awe tinged with an inevitable sadness. A day never forgotten. DAY FIVE - THURSDAY We lighten the mood again today with a day of organised independence in the mediaeval town of Bayeaux. As one guide book says, 'Bayeauxs perfectly preserved ensemble of mediaeval cathedral and world-famous tapestry of the battle of 1066, make it one of the high points of this part of Normandy'. In addition to the truly breathtaking tapestry and Cathedral Notre-Dame,
youll also enjoy poking around the atmospheric streets and squares
of the old town.. You can probably see yourself now at a sidewalk café,
a glass of wine in hand, nibbling from a plate of local cheese with
olives, just watching the local life go by and thinking to yourself,
how wonderful to have unrushed holiday time to simply soak up
the culture! Departing Bayeaux we drive westward across the Normandy countryside to Brittany and the fortified towns of St Malo and Dinan. It was here that Jacques Cartier, one of the most important early Canadian colonists, lived. Although there is much to marvel at in these towns, it is the nearby Mont St-Michel which attracts the greatest number of admiring visitors. While not still the Mount in Peril from the sea, this 10000 year old religious complex still appears to rise from the surrounding waters. Later today well explore, time permitting, another Brittany town.
Fougeres was made famous by the writer Balzac in his novel of the revolution
The Chouans in which he made much play of the towns
strange street layout. The Bretons originate from the Welsh soldiers who followed a Roman general in his 5th century battles for the Emperors laurels. Those who have travelled in Wales will recognise the similarities of place names. But legends too are similar and this morning well be driving by the Foret de Paimpont which is rich in Arthurian tales and is also known as Merlins wood. Our major stops of the day will be at Vannes and Carnac. The former has one of the liveliest mediaeval town centres and its chaotic streets, ramparts and cathedral all lend it special charm. It will be the alignments at Carnac that will provide one of the lasting memories of the region. Here some 2000 menhirs (standing stones), older than Stonehenge or the Pyramids, stand like sentinels guarding the Brittany coast line. Of course, like all prehistoric monuments their origin can only be guessed at but astronomical clocks or temples to the gods of natural forces are the favoured explanations. We leave Carnac, taking the freeway to our next base for three nights
at Saumur in the eastern Loire Valley. Dependent on time, we might find
an opportunity to vist Angers. The pretty and peaceful town of Saumur makes an excellent base for our explorations of the eastern Loire. Our filled day will include a visit to the local wine caves, seeing the troglodyte hill dwellings, visiting the fine local chateaux and spending time in the wonderfully picturesque Chinon, the 16th century birthplace of the great comic writer, Rablais. DAY NINE - MONDAY The Loire Valley is justly famed for its incredibly rich chateaux. In truth, there are almost too many to choose from but, following group discussions, well visit a cross section or spend quality time exploring just a few both today and on our return to the eastern Loire in three days time. One we shall definitely be visiting today will be Villandry, justly famed for its magnificent gardens. And not far away is the chateau that reputedly inspired the Sleeping Beauty story, Chateau dUsee. Believe it or not, theres even a local chateau with the largest collection of cadillacs outside of the USA! Well also try to include the serene Azay-le-Rideau where the Renaissance exterior of the local chateau is a sight to behold. Some tour participants might prefer to wander at leisure around mediaeval
Tours and, as ever within the framework of a Back-Roads Touring Co.
tour, there will be an opportunity of doing so. A few kilometers south of Saumur we find the town built by the great Cardinal Richelieu. It was one of the first truly planned towns and makes an interesting contrast with some of the mediaeval towns and cities weve been used to. And its another hill-top mediaeval city next on our itinerary; Poitiers. This was the seat of the Dukes of Aquitaine. The old centre of the town is a delight but a must-see is the greatest and most idiosyncratic churches in France, the Notre-Dame-la-Grande. You could spend an entire day simply taking in the amazing carving and details of west front! From Poitiers we follow a scenic route, through some delightful towns
(Chauvigny and St Savin) to the small town of Argenton-sur- Creuse.
This is real back-roads territory and a delight to the eye. Argenton is perhaps the ideal centre for those who enjoy a quiet day somewhere on tour, a day when they can get into the culture in a place far away from the tourist herd. This quaint town is noted for its weaving and theres an interesting town museum, but mainly its a place to enjoy the French everyday and ordinary, and to savour provincial life. Our accommodation here is outstanding and many past tour participants have enjoyed spending some down time here. But for those who touring has an appeal well spend the day exploring
the Creuse valley. Well follow the artists route to Gargilesse,
a small town known locally as the artists village.
The area was also home to legendary French writer, George Sands and
we will explore her connections with the area. This morning well drive north back to the Loire. Its another day of amazing and ostentatious 17th and 18th century wealth on display. Theres Chateau dChenonceau, arguably the very best in terms of architecture, site and contents. The richness of its interiors is hard to credit and perhaps partly explains why the peasants were so quick to revolt and so happy to keep Madame La Guillotine busy! Further east theres Blois, a montage of classical, gothic renaissance and mediaeval architecture, and Chambord, the largest of the Loire chateaux. After a day of gawping, and attempts to come to terms with past wealth, our night stop in the small and unpretentious riverside town of Beaugency, comes as a gentle relief! Tonight well enjoy a gourmet farewell dinner. Throughout this tour you will have been treated to some memorable dining with regional delicacies and superbly presented dishes. Maybe youll have tried frogs legs (like chicken) or escargot (snails), or even duck for the first time. Needless to say, youll also probably have treated yourself to a few fine wines and after-dinner cognacs! This is not a tour for those on diet! And please note, in France dinner
is part of life and each meal treated as an experience to be savoured.
Evening meals will be later and last longer than you might be familiar
with at home. Our last days journey includes a fitting climax to our La Belle France tour, the most divine cathedral of Chartres. Is there one to compare anywhere in the world when it comes to its stained glass? Theres 25,000 square feet of it, depicting over 5000 characters and dating from the 13th century. Old Chartres lies at the point where the river Eure cuts into the plain of Beauce; its picturesque streets evoke the bustling activity of a mediaeval street of merchants and craftsmen. Its lovely and a great place to do some final shopping! We return to our Paris hotel in the late afternoon. Tonight youre
free to pack, swap addresses with travelling companions or maybe venture
to the left bank for a final, unforgettable feast. Of course, some may
elect to extend their stay and spend some time exploring the city
of light at their leisure. Departure day, alas. Youll be taken by your guide, or local taxi arranged by Back-Roads Touring Co. to the airport or train station to begin your journey home. La Belle France will have woven her magic and as you climb into the skies well bet you make yourself a little promise next time Provence. |
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